Sunday, May 16, 2010

Fate ends in rapture: Dinner at Nobu

   My flight into New York City was later than everyone else on the trip, so as I stepped off the plane at 7:45 pm I received a text notifying me that everyone else was already headed to dinner: they were starving. Shoot. That meant I had to fend for myself on my first night in the city. Fortunately I was armed with a list of about 50 restaurants I HAD to try (which was going to be a bit of a challenge in only 2 full days). But my heart said, "Go back to Nobu."  I had been there only once before, on my last trip. By the time I made it to the hotel & checked in it was 9:30. Hmm. Would I even be there in time for dinner service? Only one way to find out...
   The cab dropped me off just steps from the door, which I walked past a couple of times without seeing. Nobu 57's entrance doesn't face the street; you have to go around the corner to find it. And the name on the door is about an inch tall. 
   I walked in & approached the concierge hopefully, could they seat one person for dinner? She smiled but looked doubtful. Checking the book, she said, "We have ONE seat left." Another woman walked me past the bar & up the stairs, directing me to the solitary seat in the center of a long sushi counter. A front-row seat for watching all the action? How lucky could I get? I got to watch SEVEN sushi masters assemble incredible dishes! Suddenly this was feeling like it was meant to be.
   My server was Kimiye, a strikingly beautiful, young half-Japanese woman born in Hawaii. I think when she first approached me she didn't expect much, but her eyes lit up when I asked her to make recommendations for me. I literally said, "I'll eat anything on the menu & would really like to try some new things." She rattled off several of her favorite dishes and as soon as I tried them I knew I was in good hands. And I needed the help: their menu is extensive!
   I watched as my chef painted sauce (miso, soy, oil) onto thin yellowtail sashimi, topping the fish with jalapeño slices and arranging the pieces like a chrysanthemum.
   I had never tried oysters before, fearing that they'd be slimy & chewy. But I figured if I was ever going to do it, THIS was the place.  Kimiye recommended kumamoto oysters, tiradito style: sweet, buttery oysters with a strong lemony sauce, cilantro, black sea salt & a touch of Japanese chili oil. Were they good? Well, let's just say that I should probably never order oysters again, because after these, they are bound to be a huge disappointment. Kimiye checked in regularly to make sure I was enjoying everything, and seemed especially pleased that I loved her selection. She genuinely seemed to be having fun.
When I finally got up the nerve, I asked them if I could take pictures: 「すみませんが、写真を取ってもいいですか。」or「写真を取って下さいませんか。」The oysters were just so beautiful I couldn't help it. The fruits in the center are Japanese mountain peaches; they have a familiar peach flavor but are sweeter, with a tiny pit inside. A perfect palate-cleanser.
   Next I tried the tuna & salmon sashimi tacos, which were the freshest fish & avocado combined with a soy dressing as a filling for crunchy wonton-taco shells. Perfection. I savored them between sips of miso soup & pinot grigio.
   I finished dinner with a selection of sashimi (oh-toro, salmon, mackerel, & sable) & a few more of those incredible oysters. ...And then she mentioned dessert. How about a Bento box filled with Ocumare choco fondant cake, and a sesame crisp w/ matcha gelato? My willpower has never been that good anyway. Bring it on.
   When the bill came, it was steep, but I figured while it might be a lot for a single meal; it was surprisingly reasonable for a religious experience! I signed the bill and wrote 「有り難うございます。」at the bottom. Kimiye picked it up & went to enter it in the computer, saw the Japanese, and took it to show to the chefs. I realized what was going on when I saw the seven of them huddled together looking quizzical, then Kimiye pointed at me, they looked shocked, and they all ran over to say hello. It was so funny: like it was happening in slow motion!
   I enjoyed a brief conversation in Japanese with the chef from Fukuoka. I told him about Madeline's brother & his family, and how they moved there last year. He was surprised that I'd heard of Fukuoka. I said that I had been to Japan three times, and loved visiting. He complimented me on my Japanese, which I refuted, saying that although I studied for five years, I've taken one year off & have forgotten a lot. When I said that I live in Kansas City, he mentioned the Royals manager (who had just been fired) & informed me that he used to manage the team in Hiroshima: the Carps
I thanked him & complimented him on the quality of the meal.
   I left Nobu knowing that this would be one of the most memorable experiences of my life. I was on such a high that I walked back to Times Square taking photos along the way, soaking up the energy & the neon lights. I wasn't even a little tired. After a quick pedicab ride, I finally went to bed around 2 am.  

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